Every so often, someone I know goes on vacation to St Thomas or one of the other Virgin Islands, and I find myself answering the same questions. Eventually I decided to write up my recommendations.
The Virgin Islands are astonishingly, breathtakingly gorgeous. I've since lived in several other places and traveled to many more, and the Virgin Islands are still among the most beautiful. If you've never been to the Caribbean before, you're in for a real treat. (And if you're from the West Indies, you know everyone thinks their island is the best.)
Here are some of my favorite things to do in the Virgin Islands. I've tried to keep this short, so as to be useful for people on short trips. There are many other great places to go and great things to do. I've focused exclusively on St Thomas and St John because that's what I know best, but don't let that stop you from exploring the rest of the Virgin Islands!
Beaches: Whenever I return, I go to the beach every day. There are many excellent beaches on St Thomas, of which my favorites are Magens Bay and Coki. I've spent so much time at Magens that some of the lifeguards still remember me. Coki is a smaller beach, but has excellent snorkeling, even for novice snorkelers and swimmers, as there's plenty to see in water shallow enough for standing. Both beaches have taxis, food concessions, and restrooms. The beaches can be crowded on Sunday afternoons and peak cruise ship days, so go early or late if you're looking for quiet. If you'll be on St Thomas for more than just a day, I strongly suggest going to St John, reachable via ferry from Red Hook or Charlotte Amalie. All of the northside beaches on St John are spectacular. For snorkelers, Trunk Bay has a self-guided underwater trail.
Ocean: The snorkeling here is amazing. In addition to Coki and Trunk, I recommend taking one of the many daysail and snorkel tours to the Baths, Virgin Gorda, St John, or other snorkel sites. (Don't forget to bring your passport.) Scuba divers can also enjoy famous dive sites in both the USVI and the BVI. If you've never been scuba diving and are interested to learn, there are several places to take extensive courses for certification, or if you don't have that much time, you can go on a sample shallow dive after a brief training. For sailors, the Virgin Islands are ideal.
Nature: You don't have to go out of your way to be surrounded by local flora and fauna: coconut palms, flamboyants, mangroves, iguanas, and mongoose abound. But for a more guided look, my favorite onshore attractions are Coral World Ocean Park and St Peter Greathouse. Coral World is adjacent to Coki, and St Peter Greathouse overlooks Magens Bay, so you can visit either on the way to the beach. If that's not enough nature for you, check out the trails and campgrounds on St John or book an ecotour.
History: I enjoy learning about history. The Virgin Islands were "discovered" by Columbus in 1493, and were settled by the English, Dutch, French, Danish, and African slaves in the 1600s. Charlotte Amalie is home to Fort Christian and many other historic buildings and landmarks.
Shopping: I don't really enjoy shopping, but if you do, the main shopping areas are downtown Charlotte Amalie and around the Havensight dock, both of which sell the usual assortment of tourist wares, as well as a variety of high-end jewelry and duty-free goods. For a quieter shopping experience, try the scenic Paradise Point, Tillett Gardens for local crafts, or Mongoose Junction, in Cruz Bay, St John. I'm also told that the newly-renovated Yacht Haven is very nice.
Food and drink: I haven't lived on St Thomas for over a decade, so I won't try to provide an exhaustive list. There are many restaurants and bars in town (Charlotte Amalie), Frenchtown, Red Hook, and Yacht Haven, as well as at the hotels. Rum is the drink of choice, and several rums are made in the Virgin Islands, including Cruzan and Pusser's. And while I said I wouldn't list specifics, I do have to single out St Thomas Dairy (near Magens Bay) for milkshakes, Duffy's Love Shack for their festive signature drinks, and Cuzzin's in town for native West Indian cuisine.
Passport (or other documentation): If you're visiting the BVI, you need a passport (even if you're a U.K. national). If you're visiting the USVI and are not a U.S. citizen or are visiting from somewhere other than the U.S. mainland, you need a passport. If you're a U.S. citizen visiting only the USVI from the U.S. mainland, you will need either a passport or both a government-issued photo ID and a certified birth certificate to return to the U.S. mainland. Executive summary: while it may not be strictly necessary, it's best to bring a passport.
Clothing: Bring at least one bathing suit, a beach cover-up (preferably one that will keep your shoulders from burning), and shoes that you don't mind getting sandy or wet. Short-sleeve or sleeveless shirts and shorts (or skirts, dresses, or lightweight pants) will be most comfortable during the day. Bring at least one pair of lightweight pants (or a skirt or dress) for restaurants where shorts will be out of place. Pants also provide some protection against mosquitoes. You may want a light sweater for air-conditioned restaurants, but you're not likely to need one outdoors.
Other: Don't forget your waterproof sunscreen -- at least SPF 45, and wear it all the time! Aloe, sunglasses, a hat or visor, insect repellent, and anti-itch remedies are also useful. Bring snorkel or scuba gear if you have it; if not, there are many convenient rentals.
As places to visit go, the Virgin Islands is pretty close to paradise. But like anywhere else, there are things to know before visiting.
Sun: Welcome to the tropics. If you're white and not used to spending lots of time in the sun, you will get a sunburn. If you're white and think you don't burn easily, you'll still probably get a sunburn. Apply sunscreen thoroughly and frequently, wear cover-ups on the beach, stay in the shade when possible, avoid midday sun, and drink lots of water (not alcohol) to minimize sunburn and dehydration.
Insects: The Caribbean is a great place to be an insect. Yes, we have mosquitoes, which sometimes (but rarely) carry dengue and other diseases. Wear insect repellent, and expect to get bitten anyway.
Weather: It's sunny and warm all year, with pleasant tradewinds to moderate the temperature, but you won't see cloudless skies here. Isolated rainstorms are not uncommon most times of the year and can leave you ducking for cover on the beach. It rarely rains for more than an hour though, and you're often rewarded with a rainbow. Hurricane season runs from June through November, and August and September are typically the most active months. If you're planning a visit then, pay attention to weather forecasts.
Driving: In the USVI, we drive on the left-hand side of the road (like in the U.K.) using left-hand drive vehicles (like in the U.S.). Roads are narrow, curvy, steep, and potholed. If you're renting a car, drive slowly and keep left. If you're not renting a car, there's an abundance of group taxis and "safari" buses that will take to you anywhere you're likely to want to go. Taxis won't leave until they are full, so plan accordingly.
Limin': As in most of Latin America and the Caribbean, the pace of life here is slower than many places. We take our relaxing ("liming") seriously and don't care much for schedules and hurrying. Slow down and be patient, and you'll enjoy being on "island time". If you're expecting fast service and tight schedules, you're likely to be disappointed.
Be respectful: People live here. Greet locals with "good morning", "good afternoon", and "good night", and remember your pleases and thank-yous, or don't be surprised if you don't get good service. Shirts and shoes are required in stores and restaurants. Don't take pictures of people without permission.
Utilities: Outside of the large resorts, power and water outages are not uncommon. There are occasionally droughts, so you may be asked to conserve water. Cell phone reception (especially AT&T) is generally good, but can be spotty in valleys. You don't have to pay roaming charges on most U.S. cell phone plans, but beware of roaming charges if you pick up a signal from the BVI.
Prices: There are plenty of places you can vacation cheaply, but few of them are in the Caribbean. Nearly everything here has to be imported, so expect to pay more than on the U.S. mainland, especially for food. However, alcohol, cigarettes, and duty-free items are usually much cheaper here than on the mainland. For budge accomodations, consider, consider camping on St John. Note that the U.S. Dollar is the official currency of all of the Virgin Islands (USVI and BVI).
Americanization: The USVI are part of the U.S. While there are many geographical and cultural differences, the USVI are a lot like the rest of the U.S. If you're a typical American worried about being somewhere foreign, there's no need to worry. We have electricity and running water (most of the time anyway), McDonald's, K-Mart, and all those usual comforts. If, on the other hand, you're trying to avoid boatloads Americans who are worried about being somewhere foreign, you may prefer to visit off-season or to spend much of your time on less-touristed islands than St Thomas.
Stay safe: The Virgin Islands, especially St Thomas and St Croix, have crime. Use common sense and don't leave valuables in your car or unattended at the beach, and avoid walking alone especially in downtown alleys and at night. Someone at your hotel can point out areas where you should be especially careful or simply avoid. Alcohol and other drugs are available in abundance, and unlike the rest of the U.S., the legal drinking age is 18. Be responsible and don't drive under the influence.
For more travel information, I've compiled a list of visitor websites. Enjoy your trip!