Every so often, someone I know goes on vacation to St Thomas or one of the other Virgin Islands, and I find myself answering the same questions. Eventually I realized I should just post something here.
The Virgin Islands are astonishingly, breathtakingly gorgeous. I've since lived in several other places and traveled to many more, and the Virgin Islands are still among the most beautiful. If you've never been to the Caribbean before, you're in for a real treat. Even if you have been to the Caribbean before, you're still in for a real treat. (And if you're from the West Indies, you probably think your island is the best, but you'll probably like the Virgin Islands too.)
Note: My recommendations are primarily for St Thomas and St John because that's what I know best.
Beaches: There are many excellent beaches on St Thomas, of which my favorites are Magens Bay and Coki. Coki is a smaller beach, but has excellent snorkeling, even for novice snorkelers and swimmers, as there's plenty to see in water shallow enough for standing. Both beaches have taxis, food concessions, and restrooms, and Magens Bay has lifeguards. Other good beaches include Lindquist Beach, which is surprisingly quiet, and Sapphire Beach, which has live music on Sundays. The beaches are most crowded on Sunday afternoons and peak cruise ship days, so go early or late if you're looking for quiet. If you'll be on St Thomas for more than just a day, I strongly suggest going to St John, reachable via ferry from Red Hook or Charlotte Amalie. All of the northside beaches on St John are spectacular. For snorkelers (and soon-to-be snorkelers), Trunk Bay has a self-guided underwater trail.
Ocean: The snorkeling here is amazing. In addition to Coki and Trunk, consider a daysail and snorkel tour to the BVI. Scuba divers can also enjoy excellent dive sites. If you've never been scuba diving and are interested to learn, there are several places to take extensive courses for certification, or if you don't have that much time, you can go on a sample shallow dive after a brief training. For sailors, the Virgin Islands are ideal.
Nature: Coconut palms, flamboyants, mangroves, iguanas, and mongoose abound. For a more guided look, my favorite onshore attractions are Coral World Ocean Park and St Peter Greathouse. Coral World is adjacent to Coki, and St Peter Greathouse overlooks Magens Bay, so you can visit either on the way to the beach. Book an ecotour with Virgin Islands Ecotours or another ecotour provider or check out the trails and campgrounds on St John.
History: The Virgin Islands history is the history of colonialism: the islands were "discovered" by Columbus in 1493, and were settled by the English, Dutch, French, Danish, and African slaves from the 1600s. The U.S. purchased the islands from Denmark in 1917. Charlotte Amalie is home to Fort Christian (currently under repairs), Blackbeard's Castle and many other historic buildings and landmarks. St Croix also has many historic attractions.
Food and drink: I haven't lived on St Thomas since 1996, so I'm not going to try to provide an exhaustive list. There are many restaurants and bars in town (Charlotte Amalie), Frenchtown, Red Hook, and Yacht Haven, as well as at the hotels. Rum is the drink of choice, and several rums are made in the Virgin Islands, including Cruzan and Pusser's. And while I said I wouldn't list specifics, I do have to single out St Thomas Dairy (near Magens Bay) for milkshakes, Duffy's Love Shack for their festive signature drinks, and Cuzzin's in town for native West Indian cuisine.
Shopping: I don't enjoy shopping, but if you do, the main shopping areas are downtown Charlotte Amalie and around the Havensight dock, both of which sell the usual assortment of tourist wares, as well as a variety of high-end jewelry and duty-free goods. For a quieter shopping experience, try the scenic Paradise Point, Tillett Gardens for local crafts, or Mongoose Junction, in Cruz Bay, St John. I'm also told that the newly-renovated Yacht Haven is now the place to go.
History: Take a walking tour of Christiansted including Fort Christiansvaern or Frederiksted.
Nature: Visit St George Village Botanical Gardens.
Beaches: From St Thomas and St John, you can take a ferry to several islands in the BVI. I recommend The Baths on Virgin Gorda and White Bay on Jost Van Dyke.
Ocean: From St Thomas and St John, you can take daysail and snorkel tours to the Baths and other snorkel sites. The BVI also has many excellent dive sites.
Food and drink: The BVI is home to a number of world-famous bars and restaurants, including Foxy's and Soggy Dollar on Jost Van Dyke and Pusser's and The Sugar Mill on Tortola.
Passport: If you're visiting the BVI, you need a passport (even if you're a U.K. national). If you're visiting the USVI and are not a U.S. citizen or are visiting from somewhere other than the U.S. mainland, you need a passport. If you're a U.S. citizen visiting only the USVI from the U.S. mainland, you will need either a passport or both a government-issued photo ID and a certified birth certificate to return to the U.S. mainland. Executive summary: while it may not be strictly necessary, it's best to bring a passport.
Clothing: Bring at least one bathing suit, a beach cover-up (preferably one that will keep your shoulders from burning), and shoes that you don't mind getting sandy or wet. Short-sleeve or sleeveless shirts and shorts (or skirts, dresses, or lightweight pants) will be most comfortable during the day. Bring at least one pair of lightweight pants (or a skirt or dress) for restaurants where shorts will be out of place. Pants also provide some protection against mosquitoes. You may want a light sweater for air-conditioned restaurants, but you're not likely to need one outdoors.
Other: Don't forget your waterproof sunscreen -- at least SPF 45, and wear it all the time! Aloe, sunglasses, a hat or visor, insect repellent, and anti-itch remedies are also useful. Bring snorkel or scuba gear if you have it; if not, there are many convenient rentals.
As places to visit go, the Virgin Islands is pretty close to paradise. But like anywhere else, there are things to know before visiting.
Sun: Welcome to the tropics. If you're white and not used to spending lots of time in the sun, you will get a sunburn. If you're white and think you don't burn easily, you'll still probably get a sunburn. Apply sunscreen thoroughly and frequently, wear cover-ups on the beach, stay in the shade when possible, avoid midday sun, and drink lots of water (not alcohol) to minimize sunburn and dehydration.
Insects: The Caribbean is a great place to be an insect. Yes, we have mosquitoes, which sometimes (but rarely) carry dengue and other diseases. Wear insect repellent, and expect to get bitten anyway.
Weather: It's sunny and warm all year, with pleasant tradewinds to moderate the temperature, but you won't see cloudless skies here. Isolated rainstorms are not uncommon most times of the year and can leave you ducking for cover on the beach. It rarely rains for more than an hour though, and you're often rewarded with a rainbow. Hurricane season runs from June through November, and August and September are typically the most active months. If you're planning a visit then, pay attention to weather forecasts. Hurricanes kind of suck.
Driving: In the USVI, we drive on the left-hand side of the road (like in the U.K.) using left-hand drive vehicles (like in the U.S.). Roads are narrow, curvy, steep, and potholed. If you're renting a car, drive slowly and keep left. If you're not renting a car, there's an abundance of group taxis and "safari" buses that will take to you anywhere you're likely to want to go. Taxis won't leave until they are full, so plan accordingly.
Limin': As in most of the Caribbean and Latin America, the pace of life here is slow. We take our relaxing ("liming") seriously and don't care much for schedules and hurrying. Slow down and be patient, and you'll enjoy being on "island time". If you're expecting fast service and tight schedules, you're likely to be disappointed.
Be respectful: People live here. Greet locals with "good morning", "good afternoon", and "good night", and remember your pleases and thank-yous, or don't be surprised if you don't get good service. Shirts and shoes are required in stores and restaurants. Don't take pictures of people without permission.
Utilities: Outside of the large resorts, power and water outages are not uncommon. There are occasionally droughts, so you may be asked to conserve water. Cell phone reception (especially AT&T) is generally good, but can be spotty in valleys. You don't have to pay roaming charges on most U.S. cell phone plans, but beware of roaming charges if you pick up a signal from the BVI. (If you do get roaming charges, you can usually dispute them on your bill. And while you're at it, ask your provider to improve their coverage.)
Prices: There are plenty of places you can vacation cheaply, but few of them are in the Caribbean. Nearly everything here is imported, so expect to pay more than on the U.S. mainland, especially for food and gas. However, alcohol, cigarettes, and duty-free items are usually much cheaper here than on the mainland. For budget accomodations, camping on St John is the way to go. Note that the U.S. Dollar is the official currency of all of the Virgin Islands (USVI and BVI).
Americanization: The USVI are part of the U.S. While there are many geographical and cultural differences, the USVI -- especially the bits you'll see as a tourist -- are a lot like the rest of the U.S. If you're an American worried about being somewhere foreign, there's no need to worry. We have electricity and running water (well, much of the time), McDonald's, KFC, K-Mart, and all those usual comforts. If, on the other hand, you're trying to avoid boatloads of Americans who are worried about being somewhere foreign, you may prefer to visit off-season or to spend much of your time on less-touristed islands than St Thomas.
Stay safe: The Virgin Islands, especially St Thomas and St Croix, have more crime than you probably expect. Use common sense, don't leave valuables in your car or unattended at the beach, and avoid walking alone especially in downtown alleys and at night. Someone at your hotel can point out areas where you should be especially careful or simply avoid. Alcohol and other drugs are available in abundance, and unlike the rest of the U.S., the legal drinking age is 18. Be responsible and don't drive under the influence.
For more travel information, I've compiled a list of visitor websites. Enjoy your trip!
(Last modified 2010)